Introduction To Decoupage

By Karen Le Blanc

Decoupage (day-coo-parj) is from the French word couper, which means to cut. The term refers to the technique where surfaces are decorated with pictures of cut out paper and buried in layers of varnish.

Almost anything can be covered by decoupage: wood, metals and ceramics are the most common surfaces. Any paper item can be used, though it may need preparation before cutting. The arrangement is laid out and images glued to the surface and varnished. Finish coats of wax or specialty varnishes can be used to produce different effects.

Decoupage is often used to cover defects on damaged thrift-store finds. Lamps, trays, picture frames, and furniture can be given a new lease of life with decoupage. Because decoupage is versatile, requires few materials, and can be done by beginners, it has become an extremely popular hobby.

Although you can buy supplies made specifically for decoupage, you can also use supplies that you probably have lying around the house. This makes decoupage one of the cheapest crafts around.

Decoupage is now one of the fastest growing crafts worldwide. It requires relatively little capital outlay, can be done from home, and appeals to people of all ages.

One of the advantages of decoupage is that it requires very little equipment, and it’s likely that you already possess the tools that you need to get started. However, there are items that can be helpful in your decoupage, if not strictly necessary. These will vary according to the exact work you plan to do.

Favorite decoupage subjects are flowers and fruits, birds and butterflies, and angels and fairies. You can use any type of paper for decoupage - postcards, seed packets, greeting cards, wallpaper, and old children’s picture books. Many decoupeurs hunt for old papers at antique and junk shops. There are also books of motifs made specifically for decoupage.

It’s best to avoid very thin images as they may tear. It’s also preferable to avoid papers that have images on both sides, because when glued, the image on the other side may show. Images can be scanned into your computer and printed; this is useful if you want to color them yourself.

If the image you plan to use is printed on paper that is too thick, it is possible to thin the paper. This often applies to calendars or greeting cards.

The quickest method is to split the paper in half with a nail and carefully peel it apart. Using very fine sandpaper, rub the back of the print smooth and apply a coat of sealer.

Alternatively, apply a few coats of varnish to the face of the print, allowing each coat to dry. Soak the print in tepid water for a few hours, remove it and lay it face down on a piece of waxed paper. Using a damp finger, gently start rubbing away the paper. Be careful not to rub through the print. Sand the print carefully and seal.

Decoupage is an old and venerable art form, and you can see examples in many dating back many hundreds of years. It was extremely popular in the eighteenth century, and became popular again during the late Victorian era. Today, decoupage is rinsing in popularity, and new technology and easy access to computers means that it’s easier than ever to create new images.

About the Author: Karen's website has a Step by Step guide on Decoupage. Please visit the site for info on http://www.decoupage-secrets.com

Source: www.isnare.com

Nice To Have For Decoupage
But Not Always Necessary

By Karen Le Blanc

Some tools are essential for decoupage, such as scissors, glue, varnish, cotton swabs, damp rag and various images of all kind of sources. Its also a good idea to have tweezers, craft knife, cutting mat, paint brushes, craft roller, piece of sponge, metal ruler, colored pencils, water soluble pen and decoupage medium. However, there are a number of other items which are nice to have for decoupage but not always necessary:

Paints

Water-based paints are the best to use, including acrylics. If the paint says it says it can be diluted or cleaned in water, then it’s water based. Acrylic paints come in various sizes and a large range of colors. Most good craft shops have small bottles, which are ideal if you have a smaller object to paint. It's best to use foam applicators to apply paints as it lays a smoother layer than a brush, which leaves small grooves. For a larger project, you’ll need a paintbrush or foam roller.

Felt and Cork

These are useful for finishing off a project and giving it a professional look. Glue either cork or felt to the base. This also prevents scratches on the surface where you display your item. You can use self-adhesive cork or you can simply use craft glue to glue the felt or cork down. When dry cut carefully along the edges. With cork, use a very fine sandpaper to smooth the edges.

Sandpaper

Sandpaper comes in various grades but usually a 300-grit and 400-grit sandpaper should be fine. You night need a coarser grade if you are preparing old painted or varnished wood.

Sponge Applicators

These come in various sizes and are ideal since they don't leave stroke marks. The best ones to use are firm, high-density foam since they last longer. Never use them with paint or varnish that needs to be cleaned with turpentine as this ruins them. Using a foam roller when painting a larger surface gives a slightly textured finish.

Porcelain Medium

Porcelain or ceramic medium can be used as a sealant, glue, and finishing coat. It’s a thermo-setting, water-based product cured in the oven. This is the ideal for decorating glazed ceramics, pottery, glass, tiles, tin, or enamel. It forms a hard scratch and heat resistant film. It’s expensive, but a little goes a long way. Surfaces need to be dust and grease free. Brushes can be cleaned in soap and water.

Fabric or Textile Medium

Fabric or textile Medium is used as a sealant, glue, and finishing coat. It’s water-based and can be used on cotton and cotton mix fabrics. The fabric needs to be washed first to remove sizing. Once applied, it must be dried for a few hours and then heat-sealed by ironing.

Candle Medium

Candle medium is used as a sealant, glue, and finishing coat and is a water-based product. It can be mixed with equal parts of paint to paint the candle before decorating. It tends to be sticky and may need a layer of water-based varnish over it.

Outdoor Medium

Outdoor medium is used as a sealant, glue, and finishing coat. It’s used for metal, plastic, terracotta tiles, stone, wood, soap, pottery, glass, hardboard, wall, galvanized metal, and candles. It is slightly waterproof and waxy properties and unsuitable for fabrics.

Gesso

Gesso is used to create a perfectly smooth and blemish-free surface. There are also colored gessoes available. You can apply gesso to wood, bisque, and eggs. A smooth surface may need four to six coats. Lightly dry sand each coat and wipe off dust with a damp sponge. After the last coat, wet sand with superfine sandpaper. The gesso will be gooey but when it dries, the surface is smooth. You can mix paint with the gesso to make your own colored gesso. Gesso makes a difference on wooden boxes with rough routed edges and means that they require fewer coats of varnish. Usually, you need only wipe the gesso on with a piece of cloth and wipe off. This leaves a thin layer.

You can make your own gesso by mixing equal parts of PVA glue and whiting. Whiting can be found at paint stores and sporting supply stores. It’s used for marking lines on athletic fields.

Crackle

There are two different types of crackle medium – one is applied between coats of paint and one on top of the finished work. The size and shape of the crackles depends on the sponge you use. The larger the holes in the sponge, the larger the crackles. Sponge on your topcoat thickly and quickly, rotating the sponge as you go. Don’t go back over areas you have covered. Crackling will begin immediately, so you can't go back without destroying out the crackles.

When planning your crackling, decide which color is to be the top color and which is to be the crackle. Using contrasting colors gives a more pleasing result. For example, for a red box with white crackles, paint the white first, then crackle medium, then red paint. Leave it to dry for forty-five minutes after applying.

About the Author: Karen's website has a Step by Step guide on Decoupage. Please visit the site for info on http://www.decoupage-secrets.com

Source: www.isnare.com

Decoupage Plant Markers

by Eileen Bergen

Here’s a quick and easy Spring decoupage project for yourself or friends who garden.

Materials:
Plant images and names cut from your seed catalogues or magazines

Cardboard or balsa wood rectangles to fit your images
Wooden tongue depressors, popsicle sticks or stainless steel skewers as stakes to mount your plant tags and poke them into the ground

Elmer’s Glue-All or Mod Podge

Scissors

Small bowl of water

Acrylic paint (optional)

Prep surface:

If you are using balsa wood, you may need to sand off any rough edges. Do so gently to avoid splintering the wood. Then wipe away any dust with a damp sponge.

Decide if you want a colored background. The balsa wood showingthrough is a nice look by itself – kind of like old-fashioned orange crates. If you want color, apply two coats of acrylic paint, allowing two hours drying time for each coat. If there are any rough spots, sand again; and wipe away any dust as before.

Decoupage

This is a great tip from Durwin Rice. If you are using images with color on both sides (like from a catalogue or magazine), soak each image in a small bowl of water until it stops curling and floats freely without wrinkles.

This relaxes the paper fibers making it much easier to position the image cleanly on the decoupage glue/sealer. Images will slide easily into place and not be “grabbed” by the glue.

Liberally apply glue/sealer to the area for each image and slide the image into place. Gently smooth out any wrinkles or bubbles with your fingertips.

Using a damp sponge, wipe over the image and around the edges to remove any stray glue.

Repeat until all your images and plant names are in place.

Let dry thoroughly.

Check for bubbles while they dry. If some develop, smooth gently. If they are already set, pierce with a pin or craft knife, then smooth. It won’t even show when your piece is done.

Back (Optional):

Paint the back of each tag with two coats of acrylic paint.

Embellish (Optional):
Use a wide nib pen to draw outlines, background patterns or border trims on the front. Run the pen around the edge to give a ice finished look.

Seal:

Using a sponge brush, apply at least two coats of acrylic-based polyurethane. Since the markers will be exposed to the elements, three or four would be better. You’ll also see how additional coats add a special depth. Your markers will look as if you hand painted them!

Mount:

Using appropriate glue or fasteners, attach each plant label tag to a stake.

Ms Bergen has had a varied career, first as a teacher and later, after getting a MBS degree, as a vice president of a major insurance company. She has been making and selling crafts for the last 8 years.

Article Source: Artsymmetry - Free Online Art Articles Directory